Pale yellow houses draped in bougainvillea, shop-fronts lit in the glow of a dozen silk lanterns, women in conical hats lifting baskets of slippery fish from their boats -- life in old town Hoi An looks like a picture postcard of a Vietnamese country town. Of course, that didn't happen by accident. In 1999, the riverside town was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in an effort to preserve its core of historic architecture, a unique mix of Vietnamese, Chinese, Japanese, and European styles. The listing gave Hoi An the resources and impetus to better protect and maintain its wonderful architecture, and to market itself as a tourist destination. It worked, and the town now attracts visitors by the droves.

The tourist trade is now Hoi An's bread and butter, and just about every business in town is geared to it. Restaurants offer menus of local specialties and American breakfasts, tailors stands offer suits made in less than 24 hours. It can easily feel like one giant showcase with little in the way of an independent life of it's own. This conspires to make it one of the most authentic, but at the same time, one of the most artificial Vietnamese towns on the map. Yes, its nothing but a big tourist trap, but even so -- its an excellent tourist trap that shouldn't be missed. Most people who visit are charmed, and even cynics will likely seek an excuse to justify liking it.

Historians believe that Hoi An existed more than 2,000 years ago as a primitive port for the Sa Huynh people, thanks to evidence from archaeological excavations which have also pointed towards early trade with the Han dynasty in China. Through to the 15th century, the port was absorbed into the Kingdom of Champa and was known first as Lam Ap and later as Faifo. During this period, it developed into a prosperous trading port visited by trading fleets from as far afield as the Arabian peninsula. As a hub of regional trade, Hoi An brought considerable affluence to the Champa Kingdom, evidence of which can be seen at nearby My Son.

The number of traders visiting Hoi An escalated as the centuries marched on, with the Portuguese, Dutch, British and French all making an appearance, along with the ever-present Chinese, Japanese and Indians. The majority of Hoi An's most beautiful buildings were constructed from the 15th to 19th centuries.

Hoi An's star began to fade as trade slowly moved north to the larger and more industrial port of Da Nang. Today, little trade occurs aside from tourist boats, and only small-scale fishing boats use the port commercially.

Today, Hoi An continues to see large numbers of foreign visitors -- only now, they're not traders, but tourists. Many visitors pass through quickly, catching a glimpse of the colourful atmosphere, and perhaps having a rush order put through on a suit or a dress. However, those willing to stick around a little longer will be rewarded. The town conceals a dozen or so engaging historical attractions, and the area offers beaches and ruins worth some daytrips. And most importantly, those who linger in town will get to see the real life lurking behind Hoi An's faded façade.

Orientation
Hoi An sits on a peninsula among a cluster of islands on a wide river delta -- the main branch passing through town is called the Thu Bon, but in general seems to also go by the name Cua Dai Estuary.

As you're facing south from the Japansese Bridge, you're looking at another, parallel, peninsula. Beyond that, visible to the east, is Cam Nam Island, and beyond that, to the west, is Cam Kim Island. Cam Nam is accessible by bridge or boat, and Cam Kim is accessible only by boat.

The Heritage Town is roughly within the area south of Phan Chu Trinh, west of Hoang Dieu (which connects to Cam Nam Bridge), and it extends east passed the Japanese bridge along Nguyen Thai Minh Khai St until it reaches the roundabout. The southern border is, of course, the river. The Heritage Town is closed off to motorised vehicles on various days throughout the week, though there seems to be no fixed schedule. Even if you rent a motorbike you may find yourself needing a bicycle to get around the area on such days -- widely available for 10,000 dong a day. You can also just get off your motorbike and push it through the closed-off area if you like.

ATMs are widely available (they really want you to cash up and spend here!). Most of your banking needs can be met by heading to the intersection of Tran Hung Dao and Hai Ba Trung Streets. To the north of the intersection on the left is the Vietcom Bank -- no ATM but they cash travellers' cheques for dong at no commission and offer credit card advances at 3.3%. They also receive, but do not send, Moneygrams. The TechCom Bank is north of the intersection, caty-corner to the Vinh Hung 2 Hotel. They have a 24-hour ATM, do not cash travellers cheques at all, and offer credit card advances at 3%. Western Union is available here. Sacombank is on Tran Hung Dao, to the east of the intersection, next to Treat's Same-Same But Different Cafe. They cas TC's for 2% commission or US$2 per transaction, whichever is more, and credit card advances ar available at 3% interest. They also have a 24-hour ATM.

Internet is available everywhere, though rates vary widely and it may save you a couple of dong to find a place that doesn't cater to tourists. Many hotels make free internet terminals available in the lobby to their guests only. Power outages are frequent and connections can be spotty.

The main post office is on Tran Hung Dao St at the corner of Hoang Dieu. It's actually got a nice interior -- take a look up at the wood carvings in the ceilings -- and is provided with chilly air-con and nice desks to sit at and write postcards. The internet here is a good value at 3,000 dong per hour and there's usually a free terminal.

There are several ticket stalls run by the Hoi An Office of Tourist Services where you can buy tickets for the Culture Tour, on the corner of Le Loi and Tran Phu, on the corner of Hai Ba Trung and Than Phu, and on Tran Phu between Hoang Van Thu and Tran Quy Cap.

The main hospital is across the street from the post office on Tran Hung Dao.

The pier most boats for Cham Island depart from is called the Coast Guard Pier, because there's a Coast Guard office there. Once you take Cua Dai road to the beach, it's about 5 km south. But, in all likelihood, you'll be driven there.

Hoi An Office of Tourist Services: 10 Nguyen Truong To, Hoi An. T: (0510) 861 327, F: (0510) 863 761.
Hospital: 4 Tran Hung Dao, Hoi An. T: (0510) 914 660, F: (0510) 864 566
Post Office: 6 Tran Hung Dao, Hoi An. T: (0510) 861 480, F: (0510) 862 444.
Sacombank: 91 Tran Hung Dao, Hoi An. T: (0510) 911 031, 520, F: (0510) 911 032. Hours: 07:30 to 11:15 and 13:00 to 16:30 Weekdays, morning hours on Saturdays.
TechCom Bank: 927 Hai Ba Trung, Hoi An. T: (0510) 917 888; F: (0510) 917 886. www.techcombank.com.vn. Hours: 07:40 to 11:30 and 13:30 to 16:45 Weekdays, morning hours on Saturdays.
Vietcom Bank: 642 Hai Ba Trung, Hoi An. T: (0510) 916 374. Hours: 07:30 to 11:30 and 13:00 to 16:00 weekdays.